The bus ride from the USO in Seoul to the DMZ was about an hour and a half. The DMZ tour is comprised of several components. First, we arrived at Camp Bonifas which is the United Nations Command post (it was known as Camp Kitty Hawk and Camp Liberty Bell before it was renamed in 1986 to commemorate a captain killed in a now infamous ax murder on the part of North Korean soldiers). Upon arrival at Camp Bonifas, we were joined by an American soldier who would serve as our tour guide for the first half or so of the tour. He was really intense, and rightfully so given the circumstances, but his lack of emotion and his cold demeanor took a little getting used to, especially given the bubbly personality of our USO tour guide. We were made to sign an agreement that we wouldn't talk to, gesture toward or engage in any sort of verbal or non verbal communication with any North Korean soldiers or even in the direction of North Korea. We were also under strict orders not to take pictures unless we were specifically told it was allowed. Once we had all signed the agreement, we sat through a 20 minute presentation explaining the events that established the DMZ and the reasons for the present day high security environment of Camp Bonifas.
Following the presentation, we were taken to the Joint Security Area (JSA). This area is where the Armistice Agreement of 1953 (the agreement that ended the war in a ceasefire) is enforced by both sides. There are two big gorgeous buildings on either side of four blue buildings that are divided in half by small cement slabs. The cement slabs mark the border between North and South Korean territory at the JSA. As we stood outside the South Korean side looking across to the North Korean building, we were informed that this was the critical time not to make any gestures of any kind toward North Korea. Why? Because we were being filmed and photographed by North Korea in an attempt to score some propaganda or to capture footage of someone important who may or may not be part of our tour group. It was eerie to be aware that we were being photographed simply because we were standing on a specific side of a cement slab. There was a lone soldier standing guard outside the North Korean building across the way and I couldn't help but wonder if he believed in what he was doing and what his country and government stand for or if he secretly wished he could be on the other side. North Korean men are made to serve 10 years in the military while women serve four years (if I remember correctly...). It's so strange to think about how backwards North Korea seems and how together South Korea is given their close proximity and mutually nightmarish past.
After a spiel about the buildings between the two larger buildings and the antics of North Korean soldiers, we were ushered into one of the blue buildings. This building is where officials from North and South Korea and different members of the U.N. coalition have negotiation talks. This is also where tourists are able to step foot into North Korean territory. This room is under especially tight security since it is accessible to both sides. In the building with us were three South Korean soldiers who were at the ready to rip someone's head off at any sign of necessity. They were real intense dudes and we were told we could take pictures with / of them but under no circumstances were we to touch them. Pretty intense stuff.
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| That small sidewalk halfway between that patch of snow is what separates North and South Korea at this particular area |
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| The North Korean soldier - I wish I knew what he thought about all day... |
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| South Korean soldier inside the negotiation room |
For the remainder of the tour, we were shuttled around on a bus with the American soldier pointing out and explaining points of interest and the stories behind them. We went to two different lookout points where we could see North Korea, their propaganda village and a factory compound. We also drove past the Bridge of No Return which is the sight of a POW exchange following the 1953 armistice agreement where soldiers from both sides were brought to the bridge and told to choose on which side of the bridge they wanted to live. The catch was that they were never allowed to change their mind and return to the other side, hence the name of the bridge. In an instant, these soldiers were made to choose whether they wanted to return to their families in the north and a guarantee of life under a repressive government or if they wanted to live in a free, probably prosperous nation, but never see their family again. That's a pretty loaded decision to be making.
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| The Bridge of No Return |
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| North Korea - If you look at a picture of the DMZ and the surrounding area of a couple of km radius, you can distinctly tell where the line is because of the difference in lush plants and trees. It's mind blowing. |
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| There are still land mines strewn about in the DMZ |
Following our emergence from the tunnel, Jill asked our USO tour guide, a Korean college student, what her opinion was on the subject of reunification between the North and South. Her answer was a bit astounding. Basically, she said that of course in a perfect world, everyone wants reunification. But, reunification isn't just that easy. When you take two areas of similar geographic area, one that is underdeveloped, poverty stricken and barren, and one that is industrialized, modern and quite prosperous, it becomes the responsibility of the South to build up the North. Our tour guide said that while reunification sounds like a nice idea in theory, she wasn't so sure she wanted to foot the bill. What we found so interesting about this response was her pure honesty. Jill pointed out to us that many Americans hold the same sentiment when dealing with problems on the home front - poverty, hunger, welfare, etc., but only the boldest people are willing to admit their gut instinct for not wanting to tackle issues - they don't think it's their responsibility to pay for it. No one really wants to admit that they don't want to pay for other people to live better lives. It doesn't sound politically correct and while there are plenty of people who could care less about being PC, there are also plenty of people who bend over backwards to remain PC at all times. Rarely do you hear Koreans say something that isn't PC. And yet, this young woman said, without batting an eyebrow, that it wasn't her deal. The next Monday at school, my principal and I were talking about our trip to the DMZ and she and I had a fascinating two minute conversation about the situation. She said she would love to see reunification but it's not that easy. Many more resources, manpower and development go into reunification than simply breaking down the border and throwing some money to the North. What would reunification mean for Korea in the short term as well as the long term? Would they lose footing on the world stage because they would have to (to some extent) change their focus from production to rebuilding? Would it be worth the inevitable sacrifices? If you want to enter into a perplexing conversation, ask a Korean their feelings on reunification. It's astounding stuff.
After a quick lunch, we made a trip to the optimist side of the reunification situation: a train station that is all set to function once the border between the two Koreas is open. This train station is fully functioning and would open up travel not only all over the Korean peninsula but also between Europe and Asia. The only thing it needs is for North Korea to be open. It's bonkers to me that they would build such an expensive symbol of optimism. It just illustrates the paradox between the pro and con arguments for reunification. Despite the logical and practical arguments for reunification, of course the ultimate goal is to reunite, no matter the cost.
After a rather intense afternoon of mind boggling political issues, we did a little shopping for our night on the town in Hongdae (a neighborhood in Seoul that is a popular nightlife destination for Koreans and foreigners alike, also the same neighborhood as our hostel). Diane had not originally planned to go out with us after the DMZ, but after some persuasive arguments, Jill convinced her that she should stay in town and go out with us. Maria would also be joining us and none of us had properly packed for a clubbing situation, so we hit up our old standby, Forever 21, for some appropriate attire. After a delightful time getting ready to go out, including a raucous photo shoot, we left the hostel at almost 11:00 in search of a hearty dinner.
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| Watch out Hongdae - four ladies on the prowl... |
We arrived at our restaurant of choice, ordered our food and drinks and had an awesome dinner - full of laughs, meaningful toasts, good food and bonding with the restaurateur. By the end of the meal, we were ready to move the party to a noraebong (Korean style karaoke where each group has their own private room rather than singing in front of the whole bar - quite popular with all ages). We still had half a bottle of soju on our hands so we decided to share with the handsome Korean gentlemen at the table next to us. We all took the shot in unison and they thanked us from afar, showing little interest in talking to us. Satisfied with our bold move and delicious meal, we asked our server where we could find the nearest noraebong. We smuggled our own makgali (Korean rice wine - super smooth and very low alcohol content) into the noraebong and got down to business singing and having a merry time.
Within 10 minutes, there was a knock on the door. We were surprised to see the three men from the restaurant standing outside the door to our noraebong room. We still aren't sure how they found us, but we weren't too concerned about that. We invited them in and, despite the language barrier, had a good time singing and talking. We found out they were tattoo artists (what are the odds? Many Koreans still find tattoos distasteful and until the last couple of years, the only place in which to get a tattoo was at a doctor's office or an army base - oh times, they are a changin'!). After a sincere inquiry as to how much her desired tattoo would cost, one of the guys offered to give Maria a tattoo - FOR FREE. We were all astounded at this generous offer, as were the other two guys and we made him sign several pieces of paper vouching that he was serious about his promise and would make good on the offer later. We also took a picture for Maria to use as reminder when she went in for the tattoo. Once our time at the noraebong was over, they took us to a couple of clubs. We had a good time dancing and taking in the Hongdae nightlife experience. We awoke the next morning (read: afternoon) and recounted the evening. We were still baffled that we so randomly met Korean tattoo artists and had such a good time with them. Maria was quite serious about getting this free tattoo so Jill and I set out with her in search of the shop so she could remind them of their agreement. After much rigmarole, we were greeted by one of the guys and led to their shop. They did indeed remember their agreement with Maria and there are plans in the works to make good on their promise. No worries, Mom and Dad - no new tattoos for this kid, though after seeing their work, I am confident that they would do a good job. :)
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| Proof. |
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| Jill and our new Korean pals... |
We met Maria and set out for a jimjilbang (the Korean term for public bath) that Hyunjoo had recommended to me. We walked in to the building and were greeted by Koreans of all ages. For a Monday night, I was surprised to see how busy the place was. We paid 8,000 won (a little more than $5), were given our jimjilbang outfits (matching orange shirts and shorts - the biggest size they offered since we're foreigners) and instructed to put our shoes in provided lockers. We were escorted up to the second floor because we obviously had no idea where to go and were shown the layout. The second floor was the women's bath and changing area. This is where we disrobed, took the preliminary shower and took a nice long soak in one of several hot tubs set to varying temperatures. Did I mention that this is all done stark naked? I was surprised at how comfortable I was in a sea of naked Korean women. It had been awhile since using public showers in high school, but that was what it felt like, with four hot tubs and a sauna thrown in... All around us, friends were talking as if they were in a coffee shop, mothers were washing the backs of their daughters and old ladies walked around like they owned the place. As odd as it may sound, it was a beautiful environment. Koreans are not as outwardly affectionate with their children as many Americans seem to be, but seeing mothers and daughters of all ages bathing each other was a more intimate look into the intricacies of Korean culture. It wasn't uncomfortable as I had worried it might be. It seems so natural that people would enjoy a trip to the spa with their family and friends. Not only did a soak in the hot tubs refresh us at our long night on the town, but it was awesome (and not in the generic overused-by-teenagers sense of the word) to experience this beautifully intimate portrait of Korean life. The beauty didn't stop there.
The third floor was comprised of about six saunas, all set to different temperatures and with different minerals present. (The other floors housed the men's bath area, a restaurant and an outdoor pool that was obviously closed due to the currently frigid climate.) Since the sauna floor was co-ed, we wore our provided outfits. As soon as we entered the sauna floor, a couple of old men expressed their positive impressions of our bravery in attending a jimjilbang and our ability to withstand the heat of the saunas. Despite our language barriers, they were obviously impressed by our presence in the sauna and our unabashed willingness to talk to them. Oh Korea. We spent a good amount of time in each of the saunas, including one that was set so high that not only did you need a mat with which to sit in it, but there was also a woman stationed at the door to open and close it for the people entering and leaving that particular sauna. It was in this sauna that Maria saw one of her students. Her student was so embarrassed to have seen Maria in a jimjilbang (that had been one of my major concerns - running into a student or teacher on the second floor! EEK!) but both Maria and the girl's mom assured her that is was no big deal. We also spent some time in the common area between the saunas which included a snack bar, nooks for sleeping and an area in the middle for lazing about reading, talking or looking deep into the eyes of your significant other. It was fun to observe the family dynamics present in this common area (and the saunas) as well as the ways teenage couples interacted with each other. After feeling appropriately cleansed (I haven't sweat that much in a REAL long time!), we took one last shower and dip in the hot tubs before emerging from the jimjilbang with a new lease on life, and new insight into Korean culture.
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